The Stray in the ashes, Ayyappas, Umikkari and Goddu Rasam!

Heap of Ash

The stray that had sought the comfort of a heap of ashes from burnt leaves next to the mango tree starts a slow whimper that escalates into a half-hearted howl punctuated with feeble barks, effectively disrupting a pre-dawn dream-show and ending any chance to drift back into blissful sleep.  It was still in the wee hours of the night and dawn was clearly a couple of hours away.  You could hear the chanting of "Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa" in low undertones from a small group of "Ayyappas" heading for an early morning dip in the temple pond.  One of them held a "Choottu" (torch) made of  dried pinnate leaves of the coconut tree,  to light the path.  Quiet as it might have seemed, the commotion was enough to disturb the canine from its beauty sleep, snuggled in the warmth of the smooth ashes.

The "Ayyappa" devotees were preparing for their pilgrimage to Sabarimala.  Wearing rudraksha/tulasi bead "maalaas" (chain/necklace) and donning black "mundu" (dhothi), they observed a strict vratham (austerity) for 41 days before embarking on the pilgrimage to the holy Sabarimala Ayyappa temple.  The austerity observations included bathing twice a day, following a light vegetarian diet, practicing celibacy, giving up alcohol, meat and smoking , and chanting "Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa" whenever and wherever they can.   And, they walked bare-foot till the pilgrimage was completed.  Immutable faith was writ large on these devotees, and, the community - irrespective of faith, religion or caste - acknowledged that with no questions asked. 

In spite of being steeped in religious devotion,  no one in my family, including father, ever undertook the Sabarimala pilgrimage.  I never tried to figure out why the boycott and was contented seeing others undertaking the arduous pilgrimage.  But their early morning ritual and the stray's howling causing loss of precious sleep remain an unpleasant memory.  I would lay awake in my spartan bed till it made sense to get up and start the day.  As usual, the first thing to do would be to curse and pelt a stone at the stray that still slept in comfort. 

While the old lady went about her morning routines, grumbling about her back pain, I would draw a bucket of water from the well, squat on the washing stone next to the well and set about cleaning the teeth with some 'umikari' in my left palm and the right index finger. There was no tooth paste nor tooth brush.  Only the affluent could afford toothpaste and brush.  The less affluent used Gopal / Nanjangud / Colgate Tooth Powder.  And, the common people used 'umikari'. 

Paddy Husk (Umi)

Charred Paddy Husk (Umikkari) 

The word umikari means "paddy husk charcoal" - umi (paddy husk) and kari (charcoal).  It is made at home by charring, not burning, the paddy husk.  It is pure activated charcoal - odorless and tasteless -, and, rubbed against the teeth with one's finger, it made an effective teeth cleaner.  (Some people add powdered sea salt to this too.)  After cleaning the teeth with umikari and washing the mouth off of all the charcoal, I would clean my tongue with "eerkkil" - a small length of green coconut leaf midrib/stalk.  Thereafter, I would reach up to pluck a fresh green mango leaf to chew on for a minute to freshen the mouth.  (Father used to chew on short neem sticks that were extremely bitter and then use it to brush his teeth, claiming medicinal properties).  Oh yes, that was such a totally natural and organic experience.

Mango Leaves 

Neem leaves and sticks

Coconut Leaf Midrib

By the time I got done with the morning ritual, mother would be hollering for my help with her chores in and around the kitchen.  A typical day would fly by uneventfully taking me through churning the buttermilk, tending the cows, collecting flowers for father's puja, 3 meals, 6 hours of school, couple of fights with other kids, couple of hours of playing in the temple ground and a dip in the temple pond. 

Coming back after a bath in the pond, hungry and tired, I had to sit and pray in front of a lit oil lamp inside the Puja Room.  House rules were clear.  No supper without finishing the prayers.   Supper mostly consisted of left over dishes from the earlier meals and rarely did mother cook anything fresh in the evening.  Of course, there were exceptions - when there was nothing left over, and, so especially during rainy evenings, she would make a quick rasam at the blink of your eyes.  She used to call it Goddu Rasam.  The hot Goddu Rasam was accompanied with roasted papadams.  The hot rasam smelt delicious and tasted heavenly, especially when it was raining and you were extremely hungry.  Irrespective, I will claim that the Goddu Rasam is the most original simple dish that I have ever tasted in my life.  It is so simple that it also is called Pathyam (diet) Rasam and used to be a popular dish for those who were sick.  With the right attitude, you would also fall in love with this delicacy. 

The way I remember it, mother used to take a small quantity of tamarind fruit (equivalent of about half a spoon of tamarind extract) and soak it in about two cups of water for about 15 minutes and extract the juice and keep it ready.  She would heat up a frying pan and fry in a spoon of coconut oil or ghee (clarified butter):

            - Cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon

            - Mustard seeds 1 teaspoon

            - Dry red chillies - 2 broken

When the mustard seeds sputter, she would add the following and fry gently.

            - Curry leaves - 1 sprig, gently crushed

            - Coriander powder 1 teaspoon

            - Fresh black pepper powder 1/4 teaspoon

            - Hing - one or two pinches

            - Turmeric powder 1/4 teaspoon

To this mix, she would add the tamarind juice water, along with salt as needed.  Once it starts boiling, she would remove it from the stove and add a few cilantro leaves.  That's it!  She probably added a small bit of jaggery, but wouldn't ever admit that.  This goes well with hot rice, ghee and pappadams or a simple raw banana mezhukku varatti (stir fry).  It would be delicious to drink too.

I built on the base and would add a small piece of ginger ground or crushed and a couple of cloves of crushed garlic, plus one tomato nicely minced and roast it along with the rest of the spices above.... 

 (Photo courtesy, various from Google search results.)